Additional Info

Winter 2020 Shannon Basin Access

With the summer vandalism of the Sea to Sky Gondola, access to the Shannon Creek Basin is again complicated. The Shannon Creek Road is a public access option but does pass through the S2SG operational tenure and therefore we’ve reached out to the S2SG to ensure communication between winter users and the operation.

• The Shannon Creek Road will remain unplowed during winter 2020. There is a small parking area at the gate approximately 2km below the S2SG Station. As the snow-line goes lower and lower on the road, parking options are pull-outs and other small areas along the road but this is limited. Wherever you may choose to park, DO NOT block the road. Snow cats and other vehicles will be using the road at any time and may be more capable than your vehicle. Chains are highly recommended.

• At the moment, the S2SG has opted to leave the gate on the road unlocked and open. This is a gesture of goodwill by the S2SG who are allowed to lock the gate. This is intended to facilitate access for winter users but is dependent on respectful use of the area.

• The S2SG top-station is currently closed and under high-alert. Please do not enter the area. Motorized use is not permitted on the “tourist” trails located immediately around the station.

• Motorized access is allowed on the Sky Pilot Valley Road. Snowmobile use is not allowed in the sub-alpine and alpine areas of the basin. In other words, park the sled at the end of the road and don’t go any further! Be cautious where you park as several slide paths reach the road. Please be mindful that you may encounter other trail users (motorized and non-motorized) and to use caution in what is a busy area.

Please help keep this relationship positive and ensure access to come! Be safe and bring a map!

Sky Pilot North Face

Rack: 8 ice screws (include stubbies), single rack of camalots down to .1, handful of nuts, 6 pins (knife blades, baby angles, and possibly a warthog).

Descent: The route is not equipped with fixed gear and trees are somewhat sparse for rappelling. Bailing off V-threads after P1 is possible but above that, it may be easier climbing up than rappel. Descent is easiest via the standard West Ridge route. There are several rappel stations along the way that may be buried in snow. Route finding can be difficult. It’s recommended to be familiar with the W Ridge in winter before descending it after climbing the N Face.

The North Face of Sky Pilot is an increasingly popular alpine climb with a reasonably long season. It is plagued however by deep snow conditions and therefore is only practical after extended periods of high pressure when snow is firm and compacted. It’s not a high technical grade but the snow conditions can add an element of insecurity that the grade does not reflect.

If the snow is fresh, you will be swimming, not climbing. Avalanche hazard off the upper slopes is a real hazard so be confident in the forecast. Several variations exist, this topo was made early in a relatively lean ice season and therefore does not take a completely direct route.

P1: WI 3 - Climb a single pitch curtain of ice to easier slopes above. Plan your belay carefully as you may transition from the ice to deep snow making a belay difficult. Rock gear in the cliff above is possible.

P2: Traverse snow and ice up and right along a cliff band to a major snowfield. Move up and right to a high clump of trees. Alternatively if there’s ice, climb directly up from the P1 belay on thin smears of ice then traverse right onto the smaller snowfield.

P3: Climb a small step and then up a snow field and left to a cave belay.

P4: WI3/M2 - Ice conditions will dictate making easy moves on ice or a few moves on rock to climbers’ left of the cave and then back onto easy snow.

P5: Initially steep snow gradually kicks back to easier terrain and eventually hits the North Ridge. This may require a bit of simul-climbing to avoid excessive belaying. Follow the low-angle ridge crest to the summit!

Mt. Habrich South Face/Ridge

Rack: Standard alpine rock rack: .3-#3 + nuts. No quick draws but bring plenty of long runners to extend pieces and sling trees. Cordalettes helpful for rock horn and gear anchors.

Descent: Simplest and safest is to find the bolted rappels for the route Escape Velocity off the north side of the summit. See McLane guidebook for a topo. Rappels are 30m.

This route is listed in the 2018 McLane Squamish Rockclimbs Guidebook as the South Face though it does have somewhat of a ridge feel and appearance on the map. It is one of the easiest routes on the peak and an enjoyable day. Approach via the standard climber’s trail from Sky Pilot Valley but traverse under the SW Face of Habrich along an obvious trail. Hand pull lines lead you up a gully towards the South Col. It’s tempting to bushwhack straight up from the top of the lines to the col but by following the path further away from Habrich and then connecting with the South Ridge a bit lower, you’ll have a pleasant ramble back to the col rather than a steep slippery blueberry bush bash.

At the col, a short fixed rope and some trimmed branches mark the start of the route. Trend up and right along decent rock on low-5th class terrain to several slab steps. The climbing is never truly difficult but it can be a bit runout on the slabs. Tree belays are generally possible on the first half of the route.

Continue trending up and right until you reach a major corner with a slight overhang. It’s more daunting looking than it is to climb (5.7). A cam in the corner with a long runner will help prevent rope drag. Use face holds out right and cruise up the corner. A belay at a major rock above is the end of the serious difficulties.

At the ledge, it’s possible to traverse left along ledges to the top of Solar System and an easy scramble to the summit. The true South Ridge route continues up and right along corners with decent rock and easy gear placements. Gear belays are required as are long runners to prevent rope drag. One final slab and a 5.6 step up in a hand crack takes you almost directly to the summit!

Petzl RAD Line for Ski Mountaineering

The Sky Pilot area is full of micro-terrain features that make for a really unique ski mountaineering experience. The demanding conditions require an advanced skill level to safely explore the area to it’s fullest. One of the critical tools is the ability to build an anchor for belays and rappel descents. Luckily, anchors are often relatively easy to come by. Most lines are at or below treeline so there’s often a convenient and sturdy tree. If not, the deep and dense snowpack generally allows for snow anchors. A Petzl RAD line is a perfect rope for moving through these small features. Here’s a few tips on how we use it.

• A 30m RAD line packs very small and doesn’t weigh much. If two members of your party each carry one, you’re able to make 30m rappels (when you tie them together) and at very little weight cost.

• The simplest kit is a RAD line, a pear shaped carabiner (to rappel off a munter hitch), and a lightweight ski mountaineering harness like the Blue Ice Choucas Light. Additionally, some cordalette can be helpful for anchors.

• Use a RAD line to belay into steep lines for a ski cut or to cut cornices. Make sure your belay/anchor is sufficiently far back from the edge.

• Rappel into lines with either a single 30m or two 30s tied together. Do your research on the length needed. Our map includes common rappel lengths.

• Some of the ski lines well below tree-line cliff out. Especially in early season when the snowpack is lower. A RAD line helps you move through these situations with less likelihood of being turned around!

• RAD lines are also helpful in glaciated terrain like the Spearhead Range. Your rope will serve double duty!

• More detailed technical recommendations are available at the Petzl website.

Buy your RAD Line at Escape Route in Squamish or Whistler!